ohNo!s dad was a professional surfer and her dream is to become a professional surfer. They love to surf because it is a great feeling and you can go wherever you want.
S/he says she always dreamed about falling. Her dream is to become a professional surfer. My dad, Carlos, was a professional surfer. His dream was to become a pro. I think the thing that’s most exciting about my dad is that he’s really, really good at what he does. The thing I’m really good at is surfing. I love to surf. It’s a great feeling. You’re doing something really difficult, and then you have this great accomplishment when you do it. He surfs every day. He’s a very good surfer. He’s the best surfer in the world. He surfs at beaches, and the best beach is Malibu, in California. That’s where he surfs. My dad’s a very special guy. He’s always been an amazing father. When I was a kid, I used to go to the beach with my dad. I would just watch him surf. One time, I asked him to teach me how to surf. He said, “I’ll teach you, but you’ll never be as good as me.” He said that to me every time I asked him to teach me. It was a real motivator for me.
The thing I really love about surfing is the freedom. I can go wherever I want, whenever I want. I don’t have to go to school. I don’t have to go to work. I just go out and have fun. When I was in high school, I was always surfing. Sometimes, I would come home and tell my mom, “I don’t want to go to school.” My mom would say, “Okay, but you’re going to have to go to school.” And I would go, “Fine.” My mom always knew when I was surfing, because she could always hear me surf. She’d yell out, “ohNo!” And I would hear her.
I always had fun at home, but I didn’t have as much fun at school. It was hard for me